On a rainy afternoon, in dire need of comfort and hungry for a snack, I headed for chocolatetcaetera.fr, one of my favorite baking blogs. I’ve never been disappointed by Guillemette’s recipes, and anyone who’s had the chance to try her brookies and mega-cookie knows that you quickly become addicted! This time, it was the chocolate and pistachio dried apricot blondie that caught my eye. A quick trip to my cupboards and yes! I had everything I needed on hand (I must say, my drawer is starting to look like a branch of a raw materials boutique…). The original recipe is apparently by Martha Stewart, the papess of American decorating, cooking and savoir-vivre. Continue reading “Dried apricot, chocolate and pistachio blondie”
Richard Sève’s macaroons
As I announced in my article on lemon macaroons, I was recently invited to Lyon to the Sève chocolate factory to discover the Musco (chocolate museum) and take a macaroon masterclass. I learned a lot (it’s not every day you get to take a class with a member of Relais et Desserts!). As I’ve been given permission to publish the recipe, I’m giving you all the tips you need to make macarons just like the chef! And if you’ve been following my adventures on Instagram, I’ve finally revealed the recipe and method for making the famous ganache that has turned so many heads! Continue reading “Richard Sève’s macaroons”
Easy sponge cake in 3 ingredients!
The sponge cake
Sponge cake can be a scary preparation: who hasn’t ended up with a dense, slightly flat cookie, or one that sank after baking? It’s ultra frustrating, and that’s why I’m going to share all my tips to make sure it never happens to you again (and especially not on the CAP pâtissier exam if you pass!).
Génoise in a bain-marie or in a food processor?
It’s a question that divides the pros. It’s been proven that making sponge cake in a bain-marie doesn’t help it rise better or make it fluffier. However, some old-school teachers swear by tradition. At CAP, I recommend using the bain-marie technique (to do this, beat the eggs and sugar in a mixing bowl until the mixture has risen to 40°. Then whip the mixture in a food processor until completely cool.) But today, I’m going to explain the housewife technique to you, and I’d advise you not to worry if you’re at home!
Preparing the sponge cake
The first step is to mix the eggs with the sugar in the bowl of a mixer. Using the whisk attachment, turn the food processor up to full speed and wait! The mixture will start to foam, and after about 20 minutes, it will have tripled in volume. Then the first stage is complete.
Adding the flour
This is the trickiest part of the recipe. Once the eggs and sugar are homogeneous and airy, add the flour. Start by sifting it to make it as light as possible. Then, using a wooden spatula, gently scrape the bottom of the bowl. Lift the mixture and let it rest gently until it is homogeneous. The mixture should be frothy and full of air bubbles.
Plating vs. molding the sponge cake
There are 2 techniques for baking a sponge cake. In a “molding” mold or poached on a “veneering” plate. The advantage of molding: everything goes into the oven at once, but the cookie has to be sliced thickly after baking. The advantage of plating is that it’s very thin right out of the oven, so there’s no need to slice. But not all the ingredients fit into a domestic oven at once. You therefore run the risk of the last cookie disc falling off before it’s cooked. In fact, I was very inspired by Rose & Cook’s article on the subject. Conclusion: at home, I mold; in the lab, I plate!
It’s up to you to decide what you want and what equipment you have at home. In any case, you’ll need to pipe the mixture into a piping bag. You’ll then have the choice of placing the cookie on a sulfur sheet with a template, or molding it (in an entremet circle).
A little tip: I use a template or entremet ring 2 cm smaller than the size of the cake. That way, there’s no need to cut after cooking.
Baking the cookie
The sponge cake can be baked for 20 minutes at 180°C. To ensure that it doesn’t fall apart after baking, it must be very firm when you take it out of the oven: when you press it with your finger, it should resist well. If in doubt, extend the baking time: there’s nothing more frustrating than a beautifully puffed sponge cake that falls apart after baking!
Cutting the sponge cake
If you’ve made your sponge cake for an entremet, you’ll need to cut it. The best way to do this is with a sponge knife: a very long knife with rounded teeth that cuts very well! To cut even discs, keep the knife still and rotate the cookie. Don’t hesitate to cut your sponge cake into 3, or 4 if it’s really puffed up. Otherwise, it’s complicated in terms of height so as not to exceed 4.5 cm in a entremet!
Génoise
Equipment
- Un cul de poule
- Un robot pâtissier ou un batteur électrique
- Une spatule en bois
- Un cercle de 22 cm de diamètre
Ingredients
- 4 Oeufs
- 125 g de sucre
- 125 g de farine
Instructions
- Mettre les oeufs et le sucre dans la cuve du robot et fouetter rapidement jusqu'à ce que le mélange blanchisse et triple de volume.4 Oeufs, 125 g de sucre
- Tamiser la farine.125 g de farine
- L'ajouter en 3 fois au mélange sucre/oeufs et mélanger délicatement avec une spatule en bois.
- Plaquer ou mouler la génoise dans un moule à génoise.
- Cuire 20 minutes à 180°C.
Nutrition
6 questions to make a success of your pate sucree
In an article dedicated to this subject, I explained in detail how to create pâte sucrée, but today I’ve decided to take you step by step through the various problems you may encounter, and the main questions that apprentice pastry chefs ask themselves!
Which flour for sweet pastry?
For pie doughs, especially when you’re just starting out, it’s best to use a flour that contains a little less gluten. This reduces the risk of the dough shrinking. T55 flour is ideal for making sweet dough.
Retractable sweet dough
Shrinking pastry is the No. 1 problem when making pie. This is due to the gluten that develops in the dough when it is worked. Gluten is necessary for the elements to amalgamate, but too much gluten causes the dough to shrink during baking, limiting the height of the edges. To avoid this, you can use T55 flour, which is slightly lower in gluten than T45 flour. To limit the development of the glutinian network, it is also important not to overwork the dough once the flour has hydrated.
The last technique is to put the dough to rest in the refrigerator: in a ball when it is amalgamated and a second time when the tart tin or circle is dark with the dough. These 3 techniques will help you avoid a sweet pastry that shrinks during baking.
Crumbling sweet dough
Crumbling dough is due to a lack of gluten. As much as too much gluten is a problem for baking, a dough that lacks gluten will crumble. So we need to find the right mix. To do this, you need to knead the dough until it is homogeneous, but stop as soon as it is. And to prevent the pastry from shrinking during baking, remember to let it rest in the fridge before rolling it out and putting the tart in the oven.
Sweet dough that breaks
A dough that breaks is the result of a high butter content. It’s difficult to work with, but it’s also what makes the dough so delicious. You can add a little almond powder to the dough to make it a little less brittle. But the real trick to prevent the dough from breaking is not to roll it out too cold. You have to leave it
Sweet paste that sticks
If your sweet dough sticks, it’s too hot. Put it back in the fridge for ten minutes or so to bring the temperature down. Don’t forget to dust the work surface with flour to prevent the sweet dough from sticking to the work surface.
Sweet dough that sags or falls over
A sweet pastry that sags is due to 2 things: an over-worked pastry that has developed too much gluten (I refer you to the section “sweet pastry that sags” and a poor fonçage. When you’re deep-drawing a tart dough, you need to press down with your thumb to press the dough against the edge of the circle. When baked, it will adhere well to the circle and should not sag or droop.
Super easy Breton shortbread – 5 ingredients
Who has never cracked at snack time for small Breton shortbread? Until very recently, I had never done it myself. But one day when I was looking for a quick snack with few ingredients, this recipe stood out for its simplicity. Since then, it’s my secret trick that I pull out when I need a quick and easy snack!
Origin of Breton shortbread
Breton shortbread was originally prepared by Breton housewives for their energetic quality and their long shelf life. This makes it the ideal biscuit for times of war and long sea trips. It was in the 20th century that the Traou Mad pastry shop devoted itself exclusively to this biscuit and made it a symbol of Brittany recognized worldwide! Local producers are also in discussion to obtain the Protected Geographical Indication label.
The real recipe for Breton shortbread
Breton shortbread, also called Breton biscuit, is of course a recipe prepared with salted butter. Forget recipes that add salt independently. For the rest of the ingredients, get good flour and free-range eggs (if you can) and you’ll have everything you need to make the real Breton shortbread recipe!
Which flour for a good Breton shortbread?
For traditional Breton shortbread, you can use either T45 or T55 flour. It is also possible to put 50% buckwheat flour to bring a slightly more authentic taste. For a gluten-free version, you can use rice flour.
How to make a Breton shortbread?
As I told you in the intro, making a Breton shortbread is quite easy and quick. First sift the flour with the baking powder. Next, whiten the egg yolks with the sugar. When it has tripled in volume, add the flour and baking powder. Once the mixture is homogeneous, it is time to add the softened salted butter (at room temperature, therefore, not melted). Mix again until all the ingredients are well combined. No technical difficulty, the success of the recipe lies above all in the cooling time.
Make very thick Breton shortbread?
Once the dough is finished, it must be cooled in order to be able to detail it. For this, we make a sausage of dough in plastic film. After a passage in the fridge (about 1 hour), the dough is ready to be cut into 0.5 cm slices (more if you want them really thick. And to keep the round shape, I advise you to cook them in individual circles. This is the secret to obtaining very round and thick Breton shortbread.
Cooking
Place the slices of dough on a baking sheet covered with a silpat sheet (I only use that now and it’s really the best!). The shortbreads are cooked for 15 to 20 minutes in an oven heated to 165°C. They’re done when they look dry and the edge is lightly browned.
How to store Breton shortbread?
These little Breton shortbread cookies never last long, but if there are any left after the first pass, you can keep them for a week in an airtight container.
Tasting
Enjoy your Breton shortbread with a good cup of hot tea and why not a lick of Guérande salt caramel . You tell me the news !
Sablés bretons rapides et faciles
Equipment
- 1 saladier
- 6 cercles individuels
Ingredients
- 3 jaunes d'oeuf
- 175 g de farine
- 11 g de levure
- 100 g de sucre
- 100 g de beurre demi-sel
Instructions
- Mélanger la farine et la levure, réserver.175 g de farine, 11 g de levure
- Mélanger le sucre avec les jaunes d'oeuf.100 g de sucre, 3 jaunes d'oeuf
- Faire blanchir le mélange jusqu'à ce qu'il triple de volume
- Ajouter la farine et mélanger
- Ajouter le beurre demi-sel et mélanger
- Faire une boule de pâte.100 g de beurre demi-sel
- Faire un boudin en mettant la pâte dans un film plastique.
- Mettre au frigo au moins 30 minutes. Puis sortir le boudin et découper des tranches de 0,5 cm d'épaisseur.
- Déposer sur une plaque et mettre à cuire 15 minutes à 165°C. Utiliser un cercle individuel si vous voulez que vos sablés soient bien ronds !
- Laisser refroidir quelques instants et déguster !
Nutrition
7 MAGICAL TIPS TO CATCH UP ON (ALMOST) ANY PASTRY RECIPE
You may have followed the recipe to the letter, but it’s no good. A cream that slices, a forgotten ingredient or a hazardous temperature… and a well-oiled preparation turns into a disaster. With time and the preparation of the CAP in free candidate, I learned 7 magic tricks that allow to catch up (almost) any recipe.
Before I reveal all my tricks, I’ll first give you the most important but perhaps most difficult trick to get your head around: think! When we miss something (me first), we tend to panic, then get upset and finally throw it all away to move on and start over. It’s human, but it’s the worst way to go. When things go wrong, the first thing to do is to stop for a moment, take a breath and step back for 15 seconds. What went wrong? Why did it happen? Getting into the habit of asking yourself these questions will help you think through how to fix it.
You certainly know that show “Norbert and Jean: the challenge” where the two chefs had to make exceptional recipes live in housewife kitchens? I had been struck by their ability to take a step back and bounce back (and all this under the eye of the cameras in front of thousands of viewers). I loved Jean Imbert’s quote: “A good cook is not someone who gets it right the first time, it’s someone who is capable of correcting the course and making up for a recipe”. I think this is a very good philosophy in a kitchen and in life in general. So before you get upset, you take a deep breath and think about what method will be best to catch up on your recipe:
THE HAND BLENDER
I think it is the most used magic tool during the preparation of the CAP. A ganache that isn’t smooth, a mousse that’s seedy, an overcooked custard… One stroke of the hand blender and you’ll have a smooth preparation again. Well, don’t have fun catching up on your custard like that at the exam, but at home to avoid throwing it all away, it works very well (it still retains a slightly pronounced eggy taste)!
But be careful when using the hand blender, be sure to use a tall, narrow container so as not to introduce air into your mixture. Otherwise, your cream or ganache will have air bubbles, which will be unsightly (in a frosting for example) and will make your preparation swell a lot when baking (which is rarely the desired effect).
THE SIEVE
It is often the complement of the mixer. When you’ve tried to dissolve the pieces and it didn’t work, you discard it! Always use the blender first to try to get as much of the mixture as possible (so you don’t get stuck with the recipe).
The strainer works very well for example with a caramel which would have frozen a little or a ganache where there would remain pieces of chocolate. You can also use it for a pastry cream that has stuck to the bottom of the pan (not too much, otherwise you’ll taste it).
GELATINA
This is more of a tip to avoid the hassle than to really make up for a failed recipe. Whipped cream that won’t rise? A pie crust that can’t be rolled out? Put it back in the fridge (or even the freezer), wait a bit and try again. It should be fine on its own. Sometimes you have to wait until the mixture is really cold. By the way, if you don’t have enough time to chill a mixture, consider separating it into several parts. Smaller quantities cool much faster than larger ones.
THE BLOWTORCH
So this is a typical CAP tip and it works especially with butter problems. Sometimes the butter freezes in pieces in the cream and makes it greasy. A little blow with a blowtorch on the bowl of the food processor (stainless steel, of course…) will allow you to heat up the preparation a little bit and melt the butter pieces. Be careful, stop before the preparation is totally liquid because it’s impossible to catch it!
TIME
Did you know that when you are stressed, time seems to pass more quickly? It is a brain mechanism that analyses less things and makes time seem to pass more quickly.
So sometimes, if your preparation doesn’t turn out as expected, really give yourself time to succeed. For me, it always seems like an eternity to wait to whip up a buttercream. Every time I think I must have missed something but I force myself to wait to be sure… and every time it rises correctly afterwards!
REUSING
Well, obviously this delicious mousse is a failure and won’t hold up to that beautiful entremet you had planned. But after all, who decided it was unusable? Why don’t you put your mousse in a glass jar and change the name from “mousse” to “cream” (or even “coulis” :P).
If the preparation lends itself to it, you can also try adding 4 eggs, 150 g of flour and put in the oven at 180°. It can give good surprises!
The idea is to be creative and to turn your mistakes into strength. You will see that sometimes the so-called failed result pushes you to surpass yourself and is finally better than the original idea.
Bonus :
J’ai appris récemment qu’on pouvait rattraper une crème fouettée trop battue en ajoutant un peu de crème liquide I recently learned that you can make up for a whipped cream that has been beaten too much by adding a little liquid cream to dilute the preparation. If the ganache doesn’t set, add a little water to boost the emulsion. I have listed my 8 tips for making up for a failed ganache in an article!
What about you, do you have any great tips for making up for screw-ups?